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SimonThibault.com

Journalist. Food Writer. Producer.

Cookbook Love

It’s no secret that I have a bit of a cookbook addiction. Every time I travel, I find myself in a bookstore perusing the shelves, looking for something interesting  - a classic book I have been told I should own, a name or title that sounds familiar, a look at a region or culture I am interested in. 

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Over the past few years, I don’t think I have travelled without coming home with at least a few  new books in my suitcase. I remember the first time I ever went to New York City’s Kitchen Arts and Letters. I packed my suitcase and my carry-on full of books. I got to the airport and was told that my suitcase was overweight. “That’ll be $100 please,” said the agent. I dutifully paid, having learned a valuable lesson. Know your problem, face it, and bring an extra suitcase just for cookbooks. This has become my semi-usual mode of travel.

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But as much as I love digging around everywhere from bookstores dedicated to cookery (hello KAL and Toronto's The Good Egg), second hand bookstores with well selected beauties (Hi Bonnie Slotnick and Balfour Books), and even random junk shops, I do have to say that there are a few books in my collection that I keep pulling out when I am unsure as to what I want to cook.  *

(*A tip: Even though these are books I pull out often, I have an extra trick up my sleeve. Every time I read a new cookbook, I make sure to have a pen and paper with me. As I go through the recipes and notice one that interests me , I write down it’s name and page number.  That little note will serve as a shorthand/reminder of what there is in the book that I have wanted to make before, saving me time instead of perusing throughout the whole book. )

These are the books that have shaped my pantry, the way that I shop, and have led me to dig even deeper into their respective cuisines. Thankfully most of these books are all still in print, and easily available from your local bookseller or online. (But really, do yourself a favour, and order it from your local bookseller. They’ll love you for it, and tend to want to help you find even better books. I’ve known many a bookstore to take suggestions on titles that their customers have suggested to them). 

To be fair to each of them, I am listing them alphabetically by author.

Washoku, Elizabeth Andoh

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When most people think of Japanese food, they immediately go and think of sushi, tempura, teriyaki, or perhaps a bento lunch box special of all three. Although all three of these items are wonderful and thankfully easy to find, this is only a fraction of what there is to offer when it comes to Japanese foodstuffs. The real beauty of Japanese food comes in the breadth of foods known as washoku, or homestyle foods. Washoku literally means “food harmony” but for me, it means comfort.  

One of my first jobs in the food industry was in working at a Japanese restaurant. The menu wasn’t just sushi rolls and tempura lunch specials, it also had an extensive menu of washoku dishes, though they weren’t named as such. It was here that I fell in love with these comforting flavours.  It wasn’t a cuisine that relied on bombast - it opened my palate to the importance of subtlety, and to the many uses of its base flavours (and techniques) found in dashi (arguably the base note flavour in so much of Japanese cookery), mild rice vinegars for acidity, and umami-laden shiitake mushrooms.

Andoh’s book looks at recipes and ingredients in detail without being bogged down by them.  There is an extensive introduction explaining everything from the importance of washoku (U.N. designation) to the hows and whys of ingredients and how they are used in traditional japanese kitchens.  The food is approachable, and deeply satisfying.  I can’t tell you how many times I have made the oyako donburi, or how much I appreciate learning about how to use dash, which is now a staple in my cooking. Don’t know what to make for dinner? Make a dashi, steam some rice. While you’re waiting for the rice to steam, you have enough time to look into your cupboard and fridge, decide what needs to go into a pot/skillet and off you go. 

Home Baking, Naomi Duguid and Jeffrey Alford

Hot Sour Salty Sweet, Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid

I’ve gone on record in saying that Hot Sour Salty Sweet was in many ways the beginning of my interest in cooking and food writing. In the interest of full disclosure, it’s important to say that Naomi Duguid was kind enough to write the introduction to my book, Pantry and Palate.  But before that, Duguid and her former writing partner Jeffrey Alford were, to me at least, two of the best cookbook authors out there.

My copy of Hot Sour is well-loved, with stains on the pages for pho, pad thai, and som tam with long beans.  I learned to appreciate the funk of fish sauce that for a while I cooked almost every meal with it. So much so that my former partner once asked me to make a meal without it for a change. I found myself making pho on a regular basis, and asking friends to drive me to the one store in town that would carry green papaya.  Tamarind became a regular part of my pantry. I’ve been in bookstores and seen people pick up the book, and made a point to go over to them and tell them that if they want to cook southeast asian food, then they have to own that book. 

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As for Home Baking, I was a very novice baker who was mildly afraid of kneading dough when I picked it up.  I didn’t know what a biga and a poolish were (pre-ferments of small amounts of dough that bring flavour to a finished yeasted baked good) at first, but now find myself making them without thinking every time I bake bread. Home Baking tells you all you need to know in it’s title - these are recipes and foodstuffs found in homes, not professional bakeries. These are things that mothers and fathers and grandparents and children have been making for generations. Tested, used, baked, eaten, and repeated. Although I have a respect for other baking books - specific and exhaustive like Rose Levy Berenbaum’s The Pie and Pastry Bible or uber-trendy like Chad Robertson’s Tartine books - this is a perfect introduction for a beginner who wants to learn the basics or the professional who wants to look at baking through a familial lens. It’s unfortunately out of print, but ask your second hand bookseller. I’ve seen copies in stores in Halifax, Toronto, and New York City. It’s worth the search.

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Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, Deborah Madison

Although we now live in a time where vegan food is no longer something that needs to be explained, and vegetarian cookbooks are (rightly) no longer relegated or designated as ‘granola’ cooking, they can still occasionally be a tough sell for your Average Joe.  

Deborah Madison’s book is smart in that it eliminates any possible barriers to its sale or usage by stating on the cover, “If you don't attach a title to your eating style, you can cook everything in this book with meat, fish, or fowl. This is Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone.”  Smart move Madison (and your editors). She invites readers and users to not only embrace vegetables, but defeats every excuse you may have to not cook/use a vegetable by giving you tips on buying, storing, and cooking, as well as what kind of flavours and textures to expect. Too much squash sitting at the back of the fridge and tired of making soup? There is something in this book. Your farmer’s market has a stand selling salsify? Not a problem, it will explain what it is, and how to use it. Bored with carrots? Madison will help you out. I pull this book out at least every few weeks.

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Breath of a Wok, Grace Young

I knew I had to have this book when I read a review that explained it’s title. The “breath” of a wok is that flavour, that subtle smoky kiss that comes from a well-seasoned wok that is transferred to the food cooked in it.  I had always been a fan of that flavour, but was unable to replicate it at home.  Now I knew how. I emailed Grace,  thanking her for this book, and how much I had learned from it, and her other books. Young is a consummate teacher through and through, ensuring that you can and will understand how to cook with a wok. She will help you develop more than just your skills behind the stove, but also the patina on your wok, ensuring that your food will also know the beautiful breath of a wok. My own copy of this book was so well used that the binding fell apart on me.  Thankfully, I now have a signed copy.  (Pro tip: if you’re looking for a signed copy, I hear that Bonnie Slotnick often has copies for sale, as Young is a regular at the store.)

 

 

 

 

 

The Tourist, the Traveller, and the Tour Guide,

“Whereas the tourist generally hurries back home at the end of a few weeks or months, the traveler belonging no more to one place than to the next, moves slowly over periods of years, from one part of the earth to another.”

- Paul Bowles, The Sheltering Sky

That line has always struck me. But it popped into my head today when I opened up my email, and found a link to a review for Pantry and Palate in Publishers Weekly. The review reads (in part):

“With a notebook of handwritten recipes from his grandmother, he set out to research, record, and relive Acadian cuisine, testing out recipes in his kitchen and augmenting his trial and error with occasional calls to his mother. The result is a grand testimonial to Acadian cooks of generations past and a time capsule that preserves Acadian home-cooking.[…] Thibault’s culinary escapades are fascinating.”

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When Pantry and Palate hit the shelves in Canada this spring, I felt a bit like a tourist in my own head. I thought I knew what would be the big attractions, the overarching themes, what was interesting about the book. But it was enlightening to see/hear/read how people were reacting to the story and recipes within, both in the media and amongst people who contacted me about the book.  

Seven months later, Pantry and Palate is now on bookstore shelves in the U.S., and the publicity machine has started revving back up. I did a super fun interview with a radio show in New Orleans, and talked about Cajun connections. I did an interview where the importance of family and food came to the forefront, and one of my favourite websites about food, Extra Crispy, published an excerpt of the book.

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I now realize that I am the tour guide, not the tourist. And I am grateful for all the visitors who have decided to travel in my book. The review in this week’s Publishers Weekly is arguably one of the best postcards I’ve received. 

Speaking of the U.S., I recently was in New York at the launch for Pantry and Palate at Kitchen Arts and Letters. Matt Sartwell and the rest of the team at the store were kind enough to pull out a few bottle of bubbly, a few copies were sold, many more were signed, and a few items came home with me.

The most recent haul...

The most recent haul...

I still remember the first time I ever visited KAL. I walked out four hundred dollars poorer, but amazed at the dedication that the owners and staff had for all things cookery and literary, from the ephemeral to the esoteric. KAL has since become a must for me every time I visit to New York (and I now ensure to bring extra carry-on bags to avoid weight restrictions on my luggage.)  

Also while I was in New York, I went to Bonnie Slotnick Cookbooks (are you sensing a theme here yet? ) and had the chance to meet author Grace Young. Young’s books are incredible works on Chinese cookery, but my fave amongst her works is The Breath of a Wok. I had read about it in Saveur in 2004 and it was a gift to me from my parents that very Christmas. I pored over it, amazed at the detail and flourish on its pages. Young not only entices her readers to cook, but to cook well. She arms them with all the information necessary to produce good food, a skill that is sorely lacking in so many cookbooks. 

Today, Young posted this photo on her Twitter feed, taken at Bonnie’s store. 

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As someone who learned how to season a wok because of her work, this was a wonderful way to start the day.

I’ve often said that cookbooks have allowed me to travel the world. It’s a different beast to have people travel along with me. I will happily play tour guide, anywhere, anytime.

Bringing local colour and tastes far and wide.

For the past few years, I have been working at Devour! The Food Film Fest as a programmer, helping in the selection of films, and doing a few other bits and bobs at the five day festival.  This year Devour! is taking place from October 25th until the 29th in Wolfville, Nova Scotia. I'm looking forward to a bunch of the screenings, but especially Look and See: A Portrait of Wendell Berry. I'll also be hosting a panel discussion after the screening talking about farming and community. You can check out the trailer below.

I recently had the opportunity to sit down and interview noted journalist and author Jan Wong. Wong and I talked about her latest book, Apron Strings, at the Halifax Public Libraries' Central Branch. Wong is known for her work as an investigative journalist and former columnist for The Globe and Mail, especially her famous "Lunch With Jan Wong" column. I could make a joke about how the tables have turned...

Photo by Albert Lee

Photo by Albert Lee

But talking to Wong about Apron Strings was a great experience, as was reading her book. A blend of travel journal, food writing and personal essay, Wong takes her son - and her readers - to France, Italy, and China, and writes a story about how family, culture, and food intersect. But this is not an idyllic jaunt - Wong presents the bitter with the sweet on all three topics. You can read part of our interview over at Atlantic Books Today. 

Speaking of interviews, I'll be heading to Toronto quite often for the next few months, as I recently took on a side gig working with Couleurs Locales, a french language current affairs show on Unis TV. The show was kind enough to allow me to talk about Pantry and Palate - what it's like to write about and help preserve Acadian food culture - for my first time on the show. The weekly show and is a great pan-canadian look at news that I am proud to be a part of. 

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Also in Toronto, I'll be appearing at the Royal Winter Agricultural Fair on Monday, November 6th. I'll be doing two presentations on Acadian food, preserving culinary heritage, and doling out some tasty goodies as well. I only wish I could stay for the whole week for all of the other culinary events happening. Come on down and say hi!

And last but not least, I finally followed the advice that came from a few of you, and I created a Facebook Page. I'll be posting some of the content from here, as well as about things that catch my eye, postings about Pantry and Palate, and more. Do me a favour and check it out, and click Like

Fall into it.

Fall smells of apples to me.

Old Fashioned Gravensteins from my parent's orchard in Church Point, Nova Scotia.

Old Fashioned Gravensteins from my parent's orchard in Church Point, Nova Scotia.

Apples on trees waiting to be picked, apples baked into pies, apples covered with oats and nuts in crisps, apples turned into apple sauce. 

It’s a smell, and a season that makes me think of family, and of work.

When I call my parents at this time of year, they tend to answer while they are picking and packing apples. “I packed forty bushels today,” my mother will say. “Your uncle and I picked another forty to replace that one,” my father will say. Everyone wants to eat newer varieties like Honey Crisp, but my parents and I prefer older types of apples. I’ll ask about what’s being picked, and they will rattle off varieties like Gravenstein, Paula Red, Macintosh. Varieties that should be eaten when they come off the tree, and savoured for their brief time in the sun. 

Ever since I came across Rowan Jacobsen’s book, “Apples of Uncommon Character,” I’ve become obsessed with finding older varieties of apples. I ask farmers and vendors, and have some across some interesting types, apples which have wonderful spiciness, sweetness, acidity, and crunch. Fall is here. That means you should be eating apples, and good ones at that.

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Fall also makes one yearn for the summer, but I will admit I was pretty happy with this summer. Pantry and Palate did well, and continued to gain momentum and mentions in the media. I was pleasantly surprised at where the book would pop up, from a review and recipe mention in local newspapers across the country like this one in the Kingston Whig Standard (by fellow food writer Lindy Mechefske) to a profile in l’Acadie Nouvelle, as well as a feature in The National Post.

Part of the interest in the book has been because of the 150th anniversary of the founding of Canada, and so people were looking to find stories about food that may have been overlooked before now. I was interviewed by Radio-Canada to talk about the role of culinary heritage, as well as on CBC about the revelations I experienced around my personal culinary heritage while writing the book.

Speaking of storytelling, I recently had the chance to shoot with the gang from The Perennial Plate. I first came across The Perennial Plate years ago when they first started telling stories about food producers in their native Minnesota. Years later, multiple world trips and a couple James Beard Awards later, it’s creators, Daniel Klein and Mirra Fine spent a month here in Nova Scotia looking into food stories in this part of the world. Stay tuned for a video this fall. 

In fact, stay tuned for all sorts of goodies popping up here. I'm getting ready to do promotional work for the U.S. this fall, and who knows, maybe I'll be in your neck of the woods. Stay tuned.

Wild and Sweet

Today my sister would have been 44. I don't post personal items on this website very often, but today felt like a day where the exception is perfectly acceptable.

Every year when wild blueberries start appearing on kitchen tables, my mother would tell the same anecdote. “You sister would come from from camp, and I’d make her a wild blueberry pie for her birthday,” she would say.

I remember those summers. My sister Ginette, blonde and smiling from ear to ear, happy birthday being sung, and wild blueberries falling out between layers of pastry. Blue smears on plates and children’s faces. Cake wasn’t missed. It would seem out of place.

This will be the first time Ginette’s birthday will pass without her.  Over the past few weeks, my parents, my in-laws, and friends and I have all had the same thought, “She’s not here.” 

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“Are you baking a pie this year,” I ask my mother. There is a slight pause on the other end of the line. “Maybe,” she says. “She was the one who liked it the most.” I suggest doing what she feels is best. No one expects anything to be normal today. 

It’s hard not to use words like “strange” or “weird” when discussing life after death. We lack a vocabulary for the sensations, emotions, and passing of time that we endure while we grieve. The world has shifted, or maybe it’s us that has. Things that held positive significance become double edged.  Ceci n’est pas un bleuet sauvage.

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In 2014, my sister received her first cancer diagnosis. She soon lost her sense of taste due to cancer treatments, and food became a chore for her, rather than the pleasure it had been for so long.  

I ended up interviewing her about the loss of her sense of taste for CBC Radio. I listened to the interview and had forgotten that the it ended with she and I commiserating about peaches - specifically the peaches we ate as kids in our parent’s orchard.

One of the most important things she said to me, to her husband, to her kids, and to everyone who knew her, is that happiness is a choice. So even though today may seem like a day to be sad, I choose not to be be. I choose happiness